Not so happy in Broome

Broome - Port Hedland  approx 600km

Our week in Broome was not quite what we expected. Everyone we met on the road said we must book at Broome or we would never get in. So, a couple of weeks ago I got on the phone and managed to get a park, Vacation Village, that could fit us in for a week. Thank goodness! It sounded OK - on the Port Road, a bit out of town, opposite the Golf Course. We were really looking forward to a week under the palm trees, relaxing next to the pool, riding to Cable Beach, lattes in China Town etc. a real tropical holiday!  The reality was that, although it wasn't a bad park, our site was hard against a wire fence which was about 8m from the Port Road which was probably the busiest road in Broome. Heavy traffic, including trucks, road trains, 4WDs, workers utes, motor bikes, started at 5.00 am and continued until 10.00pm and then quietened down a bit but still went all night. As well as the road to the port it also serviced the major light industry area in Broome. At times we had to shout to be heard. Several  people camped near us left early and lost their money ($45p/n)  - there were no refunds. It was not a restful place.

Our first two days were taken up with food shopping, trying to get my camera fixed (couldn't), trying to get the computer fixed - couldn't, ended up buying a new one - doing 3 loads of washing, and trying to catch up on some sleep - almost impossible. On the Friday we felt ready to explore Broome and just before we were about to leave Merilyn felt something 'go' in her back as she lifted the bed. The next 2 days for her were spent on the bed in agony.  The constant pain could only be eased by lying in a certain position. On Monday we got an appointment with a young physiotherapist who was able to manipulate her pelvis back into its correct position, and with deep massage and exercises the pain eased and after a couple of days she is now quite recovered. 

 

 I did manage to do some good rides around Broome, covering both sides of the Peninsula.



I had a good time on the Sunday afternoon when I visited the famous, and quite lovely, Cable Beach. I took the classic photo of the camels on the beach with palm trees in the background and then turned and took a photo of what you don't see in the promotion pictures - dozens of 4WD's parked on the beach so their occupants can swim or just look at the view. This is what the rich tourists pay to walk past on their camel ride!

As I walked from this part of the beach I counted 30 4WD's in a line waiting to get off the beach up the narrow winding track down which 20 or so vehicles were still coming on to the beach. It took about 20 minutes for the congestion to clear. All good fun at the beach on a Sunday. In fairness the main swimming area is separate from this part of the beach. The sand is white, clean, very wide at low tide, and you can lounge on it under an umbrella for only $30 a couple for half a day - how good is that!

When Merilyn was feeling better we did enjoy exploring China Town and learning about the Pearling industry - we also had some nice coffee. Unfortunately we were not able to book a tour we had planned for Cape Levique - fortunately as it turned out because Merilyn would not have been able to go. We left Broome with good feelings about the place but somewhat disappoined and far from relaxed.

Our next stop was at Port Smith, only 130km down the road, and this was a great place. Huge shady sites, quiet - we could hear the birds, with a lagoon which was just lovely. At high tide the water was clear and blue and at low tide you could walk, or drive, across the sand for 100's of metres - it was truly amazing. One day the park owner took us across the lagoon at high tide (gold coin donation to the Flying Doctor) and left us for 4 hours. We were able to walk to the Indian Ocean, wading through a shallow inlet on the way, and we were the only ones there, Awesome!

After 3 days we were feeling relaxed. Next stop was at Eighty Mile Beach, a couple of hundred kms down the road where we spent 3 nights. Very much a fishing place but also a lovely beach to walk along - we did 3 good walks and lots of reading, resting and chatting with neighbours. I only found out as we were leaving this morning that camped behind us, with his wife and two children, was Alex Julicher, a student of mine from Woodleigh. He now drives a tug on Darwin Harbour. We had a nice but brief chat.

  

This is high tide. When the tide is out the beach is almost 1km wide.

Today we have come on another couple of hundred kms to Port Hedland where we have done a good 20km bike ride. The Port is quite amazing with 3 km long trains bringing ore from inland mines to be shipped overseas. We counted over 25 ships waiting out at sea. There were at least 5 being loaded. Ten tugboats were at the dock, road trains were loading up from huge tanks to take fuel to the mines. There are cars with yellow lights on top, flags and large numbers on the sides everywhere, and almost everybody wears a flouro work jacket. A real industrial city. As we prepare for bed we can hear trains being shunted - they each have two locos in the front, two in the middle, and 232 trucks. From outside the van the horizen is a  mass of bright lights. We are only here for one night - it is school holidays and everything is booked. Tomorrow we might head inland to Marble Bar - why not!